Restaurant review: The Cube by Electrolux, SE1
�If you enjoy making a special occasion of dinner, The Cube by Electrolux is one for you.
During it’s journey through the major European cities, including Barcelona, Stockholm and Berlin, this white box of tricks has won many friends.
The Cube is basically the ultimate pop-up. It appears atop a famous building (think Brandenburg Gate for Berlin) and invites some of the country’s finest chefs to create a feast for the denizens of said city.
In London, it’s perched on the Royal Festival Hall, affording stunning views over the Thames and the likes of Tom Kitchin and Sat Bains have already graced the kitchen.
We were treated to a banquet by Claude Bosi, of Hibiscus fame, who has been with the Cube on rotation since it sprung up in the capital.
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After heading to the top floor of the Festival Hall in a singing lift (yes, really) on a sunny Sunday lunch time we strolled out on the terrace and enjoyed champagne and amos bouches.
Around 15 people are typically invited to the Cube and there is a real supper club, vibe to proceedings, the top-secret menu providing an instant topic on conversation.
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We began with a shot of palette cleansing flower and pineapple, before a fresh and zesty portion of spider crab with mango and tiny little cucumbers.
Next was a tender helping of skate with brown butter and a bean medley, before possibly the most impressive dish; fois gras poached in figs, with an unbelievable vanilla and turnip puree. The main meal was also fantastic, one of the smallest, tastiest Sunday roasts ever. Succulent veal cheek with several types of garlic and datterino tomatoes that had been cooked for several days – a pocket-sized taste explosion.
For dessert, a cep mushroom tart – absolutely thrilling and taste-buds defying.
Each course was served with matching wines, from a crisp Albarino to a more complex Barbera d’Alba and fragrant Sagrantino di Montefalco with the dessert, which all complemented the dishes to a tee.
There’s no two ways about it – The Cube is a luxury meal out. But such is the level of service and quality I suspect Electrolux still make a loss. And having Mr Bosi take us through each course was a great experience, like a chef’s table.
If you can stretch to it, I really would recommend it and the good news is it has just been extended until the end of the year.