THERE are lots of Italian restaurants - and then there is Aqua Ristorante in Welwyn, where owner/chef Filippo Mazzarella masterminds an operation that he describes as traditional but with a modern twist, dedicated to the authentic taste of his native country. Hailing from Salerno ('where the best mozzarella in the world comes from'), he is in constant touch with his family, especially his mum, who he says is 'probably the best chef in the world'. 'With those sorts of influences, you pick up on what you eat and what food you find on a traditional table and that's what I try to give my customers at Aqua,' Filippo adds. One tip is not to be too fiddly with the ingredients. He accepts some need measuring out but with things like wine for sauces he is more inclined to the healthy splash than anything more formal. 'Try things out and see what works,' he says. Vitello d'Aqua (veal involtini with mixed wild mushrooms and Rostito ham in a Marsala sauce) Ingredients: (serves 4) 4 x 200g slices topside of veal 180g mixed mushrooms Lg slice pre-packed Rostito ham 180g Parmesan flakes 3 tbs Marsala 3 tbs meat stock Salt, pepper and oregano to taste

Method:Using a kitchen steak hammer, tenderise the veal slices, rub in seasoning of salt, pepper and oregano, add layers of chopped mixed wild mushrooms, Rostito ham and parmesan flakes and then roll. Use a tooth pick to keep the package from unrolling while cooking. Sear all round in a hot pan with oil until nicely browned, then add the Marsala. Allow alcohol to burn off, then add the meat stock and leave to cook and reduce sauce for 3 to 5 minutes.BOOK A TABLE Aqua Ristorante28 High Street, Old Welwyn AL6 9EQ, 01438 716322, www.aquaristorante.co.uk