4 out of 5 stars

Review: Toum Rotisserie, Mayfair - I'd go back in heartbeat

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I could smell the aroma of roasting chicken before I even stepped into this restaurant off Regent Street in central London.

But chicken is not the only star of the show at TOUM, a Lebanese rotisserie in Maddox Street, not far from Oxford Circus.

I thought it would be, and ordered it, but chose more besides, and can say hand on heart that I want to go back.

This is a very small, narrow restaurant where the kitchen is the centrepiece; you can sit on bar stools and watch the chefs at work. 

There are tables too, where we sat and took in the relaxed but chic vibe of the place. 

There are large windows and wood-panelled walls, tiled flooring, wooden or marble table tops and leather seating. Quiet decadence.

Toum's chic interiors has its kitchen in the centre, wood panelled walls, tiled floors, leather seating and large windows Toum's chic interior (Image: TOUM)

Drawing inspiration from Lebanon becoming part of the French Mandate in the 1920s and their combined heritage, Toum's menu blends French cooking techniques with the flavour and spice of Lebanon's Mediterranean ingredients.

We started with the hummus and flatbread with garlic, sesame and rosemary. The hummus, with its well of green olive oil, was silky smooth, with crispy chickpea balls which gave it a satisfying crunch. At £21.50 for them both, if this was all I could afford I would be happy.

The hummus with crispy chickpea balls, green olive oil and the accompanying flat bread is deliciousThe hummus with crispy chickpea balls, green olive oil and the accompanying flat bread is delicious (Image: Nathalie Raffray)

We couldn't resist a couple of side plates. My friend went for the roast octopus salad, which was so tender and came with crunchy grilled sweetcorn. 

I chose the seabass carpaccio, which was just divine. Meaty and herby, it was paired with fresh orange segments. At £17, it would again have been enough on its own. 

The sea bass carpaccio and the roast octopus salad are two small plates at TOUM worth orderingThe sea bass carpaccio and the roast octopus salad are two small plates at TOUM worth ordering (Image: Nathalie Raffray)

We couldn't not order the rotisserie chicken, and when it came it did not disappoint. We had asked for cafe de Paris butter and a garlicy sauce to go with it but it didn't need it. It was so moist.

I'd rather thoughtlessly gone for carrots instead of frites as a side and when they came, tossed with green beans, peas and lashings of melted butter, they paired so marvellously with the chicken that I felt transported to a Parisian bistro.

Most people order chicken and chips but the buttered carrot side was a revelation that made me think of a traditional French mealMost people order chicken and chips, but the buttered carrot side was a revelation that made me think of a traditional French meal (Image: Nathalie Raffray)

Add the ambient music and the cool crowd that had filled the place, and I couldn't and didn't want to move.

I was going to say 'non' to tempting desserts - tarte tatin, chocolate mousse - there was no room inside me.

Only one word for the Rose Loukoum and Pistachio seasonal soft serve: YumThe rose, loukoum and pistachio seasonal soft serve - a delight (Image: Nathalie Raffray)

But the waiter convinced me to try the rose, loukoum and pistachio seasonal soft serve. This was not a 99 flake without a flake; this was so light, so gently imbued with the fragrant taste of rose water, with tiny, chewy, Turkish delights.

It truly was a delight, but I couldn't finish it and I couldn't take it home.

I had a mint tea as a digestif and my friend had a coffee, just so we could stay a little longer.

This restaurant made me feel like I was on a Mediterranean holiday and had such a lovely atmosphere I will have to book a return trip.

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