Food & Drink

Simplicity, SE16

30 June 2010

Simplicity, SE16

LET'S be honest, there are probably only a handful of restaurants in the Docklands that have their own personality, free from the shackles of franchise. Simplicity in Rotherhithe is one of these, wearing owner Lawrence Lingard's energetic character on its understated and classy sleeve for more than three years.

Its 'catch me if you can' location in the heart of Rotherhithe Village could have both up and down sides: it's an intimate setting, but conversely there can't be much passing trade in this little hamlet, although the recent reopening of nearby Rotherhithe station may have changed this somewhat.

From the outside, you'd barely guess that you could fit a restaurant inside this quaint former dockers' café. But once inside it becomes clear the limited space has been used well, a large landscape window doing its best to direct natural light into the charming dining room. From my seat, I could see Lawrence's better half tending to a small stepping-stoned vegetable garden just outside; apparently it's good therapy away from her high-pressure day job.

Simplicity's effort to source food locally is a big part of its charm; not only is there the garden, but some of the meat hails from nearby Surrey Docks Farm as well.

Our starters, chicken consommé with diced vegetables, and chicken liver pate with Cumberland sauce, underlined Simplicity's menu philosophy: fresh ingredients in classic dishes with a few variations that may surprise in portions that shouldn't leave you wanting for more.

The consommé was delightfully concentrated - it's the kind of dish I felt I could make at home, but there's a big chance I couldn't do it anywhere near as well.

My dining partner thoroughly enjoyed the powerful pate, although she said it was marginally too salty for her taste. Both were accompanied by the freshest greens I've eaten this year, the crispy snow peas snapping loudly as they were devoured.

Lawrence described the seabass papillote as "paper bag cooking", the fish and some oceanic accompaniments (including mussels and calamari) cooked in a foil parcel with a subtle drop of white wine releasing the strong seafood flavours effectively. The grilled Scotch sirloin steak and béarnaise sauce was a classic done with a difference, the creamy sauce sweeter than other variations of béarnaise sauce I've tried. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but my partner judged it too sweet and not faithful enough to what she believed the French sauce should taste like.

Service is formal and efficient, and Lawrence worked the room all night, happy to chat about food, wine or whatever, holding down at least five ongoing conversations with the distinctly international clientele.

He convinced me to try one of his "experimental" dishes, which initially sounded like a contradiction in cuisine: spiced ginger pineapple tarte tartin with Chantilly cream. Superlatives almost failed me. It sort of summed up this enigmatic place. I'm not sure why it works, it just does.

Steve Madgwic

REVIEW: Simplicity

1 Tunnel Road, Rotherhithe, SE16 4JJ. Tel: 020 7232 5174

Prices: Set menu (evening): 2 course £19.50; 3 course £23.95

Food: 4/5

Service: 4/5

Value: 4/5

Choice: 3/5

Venue: 5/5