Food & Drink

El Faro, E14

28 July 2010

El Faro, E14

I'LL come out and say it - I hate the Spanish. Not in a nasty Griffinistic way, you understand, though Spanish speakers seem to have an erring ability to get in my way on the Tube. No, my resentment is steeped in grudging admiration and the solemn realisation they're better than us in so many ways.

They have beautiful women, football, weather and food. We have Kerry Katona, scattered showers and slop. The most intriguing thing about our football is wondering when Ashley Cole will text us a naked picture.

Thank God, therefore, that we have El Faro in our midst, not so much a taste of Spain as a delicious mouthful - all washed down with a cracking Rioja. Sitting overlooking the docks, supping on a red as the sun sets is about as good as it gets in these parts - if it wasn't for the procession of joggers and hearty gusts of wind you could almost be in a Mediterranean paradise.

What El Faro does so well is offer an authentic Spanish touch, rather than simply settling for chorizo and a few potatas bravas. Manager Fernando Gonzalez explained the real pride is in a dazzling array of chef's specials changed on regular basis.

There's flair, passion and delicate craftsmanship with everything they produce - and most has arrived direct from Spain, including the suckling pig that is synonymous with El Faro.

Whether you're hedging your bets with tapas dishes or settling for a main course, you can almost guarantee it will satisfy the taste buds. Wine buffs will be indulged by the seemingly never-ending list of tipples, confirming Spain's recent promotion to the top table of world's wine producers.

And it's all presented in such a relaxed and comfortable surroundings, accompanied by a smart and willing team of waiters.

Annoying tourists aside, there's nothing not to love about the Spanish way. I'm moving there the moment I finish this review. And I'm taking El Faro with me.

John Hyde

REVIEW: El Faro

3 Turnberry Quay,

Pepper Street, E14 9RD

Tel: 020 7987 5511

www.el-faro.co.uk

Prices: Starters from £3.25, mains from £14.50, desserts from £5.50

Food: 4/5

Service: 5/5

Value: 3/5

Choice: 3/5

Venue: 4/5